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The Rayon Files – Simplicity 3506, take 2

05 Jun

Here’s Simplicity 3506 again.. this time made up as a dress using some gifted rayon I got from my grandmama (merci, cherie!).

I’ll be honest here, I’m not a huge fan of rayon, and I pretty much abhor all but the simplest of prints. That said, who am I to look a gift fabric in the mouth? I need all the practice I can get, especially with slinky/troublesome fabrics.

This time around, I figured out how to do the neck of the dress properly, including the epaulettes…but then the neckline felt HUGE on me and it really wants to slip off… I guess I have petite shoulders for my size bust, so it’s going to be an adventure figuring out how to reconcile those two things!

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The Pattern:  Simplicity 3506 (dress pattern used), cut for size 24. Minor pattern alterations — just shortened the dress a few inches so it hit mid-knee.

The Fabric:   Donated rayon from grandma… this stuff is ravel-y! I had no idea how much so until I cut some, then accidentally brushed an edge too much and came up with a handful of thread! The fabric is really too thin for me to wear unlined… luckily, I have a wicked cool full slip that makes it look great!

The Notions: Fusible interfacing (needed it on this one) 20″ zipper (still overkill… didn’t even put it in this time)

The Costs:  $2 total. Re-using a pattern I’ve already used, the fabric was a gift, so this is just for the thread and the fusible interfacing.  This is more like it.. a cheap dress, finally! Whew!

The Cutting:  I used my rotary cutter and mat for the again on this project — I shudder to think what would have happened if I’d used scissors (even my newly sharpened shears)! Marking was still a pain on this fabric. If any of you seamstresses out there have tips, I’d love to hear them!

The Piecing: Again, super simple pattern!

The Fitting:  Still no fitting prior to sewing… silly me! Was missing the extra ease through the tummy area that I lost from the uber binding of the seams I did. Ah well, slip fixed it.

The Sewing: Figured out how to put the bodice together properly this time! I really liked the way the resulting dress fit my figure… but the neck seems too huge. I wonder how much of that is distortion from the rayon stretching, and how much is that I’ve got a small frame and big bust. Need to figure this out!  This time, I zigzagged the crap out of the folded edges before I even put the pieces together. This worked okay, except on one side seam where I had to go over it again because some of the zig-zag stitches were showing. Oops!

The Reception: I haven’t worn this out of the house yet, but I might… especially in the fall when I can wear it with a cardigan to subdue the pattern a bit! I’m picturing it with a black cardi, a wide belt, and some shiny black beads.

The Aftermath: This dress is surprisingly comfortable. Hooray!

The Future: I will absolutely make this pattern again — I still have some kinks to work out and want to know how much of it was fabric choice, and how much could be improved by a true fitting before I stitch everything together.

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4 Comments

Posted by on June 5, 2011 in creations, new skills, spot of bother

 

4 responses to “The Rayon Files – Simplicity 3506, take 2

  1. Beth

    June 24, 2011 at 9:24 am

    I like the fit on this one better. I don’t have the “problem” of a large bust, in fact, it’s quite the opposite considering I’m a big girl, but you certainly look put together. Great job!

     
    • kathleen

      July 4, 2011 at 2:11 pm

      Thanks, Beth! You can’t see in the picture that the shoulders keep slipping down a bit… the neck is a mite too big! My sister had a great idea, though… trim the edges of the neck with a delicious black lace or ruffle. I think this is a spectacular idea 🙂

       
  2. blaceyda

    October 22, 2012 at 6:05 am

    Hi, I just found your blog while searching for pictures of this pattern. I just wanted to say that I have a similar problem to you, in that I think my shoulders are more petite when compared to my bust. I’m finding it useful to use the Nancy Zieman right size measurement to choose my pattern size, the one based on the measurement from arm crease to arm crease, and then increasing the bust etc using the pivot and slide technique (forgive me if you already know about this stuff, I’ve literally just discovered you today!) Anyway, according to my bust measurements, I need to cut a 28, but using the right size measurement I cut a 24 in the shoulders and then adjust for my boobage, and I have to say, necklines and shoulders sit so much better on me using the smaller size.

     
    • kathleen

      October 22, 2012 at 8:17 am

      Yes! I have been buying my patterns using this philosophy…it is much easier to adjust that single measurement than all the others. I actually learned it from A video on the sewing with nancy website!

       

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